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The $19.95 game is definitely "a full version"--it has the same number of restaurants as previous DD games, plus if you get the Gourmet Edition (same price, but you have to buy it from playfirst.com) you get the multiplayer version and My Diner included.
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The add-ons are just that--extra things for people who want them. But you get the same amount of gameplay in DDHH without the add-ons as you did in DD, DD2, or DD3. So I think it's a good idea for people who want the extras, and it doesn't take anything away from people who just buy the main game.
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I thought The Crypt was a great add-on. Winter Wonderland didn't add much for me, though. So I may not buy the next add-on, at least not until I read some reviews and see what's in it. And I haven't bought any of the extra clothes, but I have a friend who's bought a lot of them. It just depends on what you get entertainment value out of.